Domaine Didier Dagueneau, Pur Sang, Pouilly-Fumé FR, 2016

Musky, faintly fusil, smoky, and pungent citrus oil aromas introduce the Dagueneau 2016 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Pur Sang, all of which have their piquant tactile and flavor counterparts on a dense but bright palate. Maritime saline and alkaline notes stimulate the salivary glands; nut oils add deep richness to a juicy matrix of grapefruit and lemon; while chalk, stone, and smoky black tea serve to inform a dynamic interplay that lingers long and deliciously. This is one of those Dagueneau wines that display a hint of spice and sweetness borne of oak, but this is well-integrated into the superbly complex whole that is this outstanding performance.